The big story that broke yesterday was that Constellation are offloading some of their American wine estates, using the proceeds of the sales to repay debts. What’s interesting is that they’re offloading some of the better wineries in California – Gary Farrell, Geyser Peak and Buena Vista for example – and what’s kind of ridiculous is that they bought these estates only 7 months ago.

Is it just me or does this sound like Constellation have begun flipping wineries now? I think you have to question what level of damage it can do to a solid producer to have three different sets of management in one year, all with differing ideas on driving profit margin through “adapting output”…

Think of these wineries like David Beckham – he’s doing fine at the academy as a youngster (privately owned) until he’s promoted to the senior team at Man Utd (Allied Domecq). Talent is obvious, but so is marketability and he gradually becomes a brand as opposed to a unique product. Real Madrid (Constellation) come calling and buy an over-priced brand, not the product. Realise very quickly that he’s not as fit as he used to be and offload him to LA Galaxy (Ascentia Wine Estates) who are happy to trade on his former standing. Gradually what made him unique is forgotten, and his haricuts/sarongs/tattoos become more important.

OK so a little simplified, and possibly a bit presumptive of Ascentia as they are a brand new company. It must be all the soccer on tv…

So why do a blog – who cares what I think?

The quick answer is that more than likely nobody cares, and that this blog might be visited solely by people wanting to sell me cheap medicine/incredible stocks/enlargement supplements and a supportive wife. See I used to do a printed newsletter, but effectively couldn’t find the time each month to collate our news, design, execute, print and post. This is slightly easier, and it’s certainly slightly cooler.

So first off here’s what I was drinking this weekend, one of my own and two from a producer not currently available in Ireland:The Four Graces, Pinot Blanc

  • 2006 The Four Graces, Pinot Blanc (Oregon, USA)
  • 2006 Summerland, Paradise Road Vineyard Viognier (California, USA)
  • 2005 Summerland, Rancho Santa Rosa Pinot Noir (California, USA)

The Four Graces Pinot Blanc (pictured right) is absolutely one of my favourite white wines – from beautiful packaging to biodynamic viticulture this wine insists that I put my wine anorak on when I drink it. Unashamedly off-dry, this one’s flavour profile just keeps on shifting as you drink. The one caveat to its enjoyment is if I am in the vicinity, as I can’t help myself rabbiting on about it. It is awesome stuff.

Summerland are an interesting winery based in the Central Coast of California, and make a huge array of different wines. They have an entry level range and a single vineyard range, and it was from this upper tier that the two wines above came from. I’ve been convinced for years that Santa Rita Hills is a region that can produce serious Pinot Noir, and everything I’ve tasted from there – Demetria, Sanford, Fiddlehead – is very, very good. This Rancho Santa Rosa Pinot was no different: complex, stylish and quite subtle. Santa Rita Hills is a great little bookmark for top quality Pinot Noir, but expect to pay for it. Most of the wineries above retail their Pinots in the states for $40-60 a bottle.